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I bought this specifically to use with my Sunny Bike & Peloton Digital app. I didn’t realize how much the Peloton app relies on Cadence. This sensor makes the workout .. without it, you really can’t use the Peleton app. You can now connect to the Wahoo sensor directly from your Peleton workout on the app & it shows the Candence right on the Peloton app screen. A lot of the reviews say that you can’t, but Peloton updated it to connect to the wahoo sensor via Bluetooth,
Well it’s works well, connected to Wahoo ELEMNT straight away. Clearance is tight though, I didn’t want to use the tape to hold it in place (prefer the silicone holder and zip ties) but I had no choice in the end.
Thought I'd get myself a cadence meter - purely for experimentation, as I've never bothered about actually measuring/tracking my cadence before especially while actually out on my bike.
After reading around (and being tempted to go for a power meter instead) it came down to a cheap "own brand" (because why spend lots on an experiment), a Polar device (would match all my other devices but non-replaceable battery made it look a bit pricey) or this Wahoo device.
The price seemed reasonable enough with not much discount available anywhere and with the option to fit onto the Velcro strap on my shoes it seemed worth a try as I could also use it on my MTB or my occasional winter use indoor training bike and get my money's worth.
Fitting to a bike or using the shoe mount is simplicity as is setup/pairing. I've only used the shoe mount as the crank mounting options of tape or cable ties was a bit permanent while I experimented & decided but it's not rocket science.
To activate, you move/shake it and it links with your paired device and after a few revolutions it registers on the display.
Accuracy seemed good and I got to grips with it. After 3-4 days my Polar V650 suggested the battery was down to 50% - and although the Polar is sometimes a bit pessimistic about this figure with my HR monitor it seems to be a reasonable indicator that a battery has been in use for some time. I had an episode of it not registering and one of it stopping mid-ride so I figured maybe a dud battery. I changed the "no name" battery for an Energizer one and all was well for a week then another low battery warning, a failed connection and a mid-ride stop (when I stopped for a quick break) in past 24hrs. All of my rides have been about 35-40 minutes commuting - so nothing I'd say is excessive.
Changing the battery (a CR2032) involves twisting the unit out of it's mount (of necessity, quite a tight fit) and prising the case apart. Despite starting with a perfectly sized flathead screwdriver it took some cursing with various sized screwdriver blades, coins and knives to change 2 batteries in under 2 weeks and I've mangled the case in the process. Yes, it's a securely closed unit.
I'll persist with another Energiser or Duracell CR2032 but on the strength of the past 2 weeks, 12-months between battery changes isn't going to happen anytime soon. With the connection failures & mid-ride stops, I really can't recommend this item based on my experiences.
UPDATE 5th October : after 3 weeks with no use (because I've been on holiday and not been out on road bike) I deleted it from my Polar V650 then re-paired it for a fresh start. 30% battery warning but seemed to pair OK then once I started pedalling no cadence figure showing up. No more running commentaries on it's failings.
Paired successfully with my Wahoo Element but then spent most of the time reporting zero rpm interspersed with occasional other numbers that were clearly wrong.
Possibly a worn out battery since Wahoo stupidly ship the device with the battery enabled (on a device that switches in when it reacts to movement - brilliant!). However I didn't bother to investigate further as a brand new item should just work. Wahoo make some great products but clearly have quality control issues as I also received a faulty Tickr in the same order. I received a replacement Tickr that seems to be fine but I just returned and refunded the cadence sensor and bought a much cheaper chinese version instead that worked first time (and came with the battery disabled initially, fancy that)
This has been on my bike for a month and it's worked perfectly. It's paired instantly with both my phone and my Elemnt Bolt. I used the neoprene mount and supplied zip ties to attach it to my crank, which is a little ugly but avoids the worry of the double-sided tape falling off. You really don't have to think about the sensor: just get on the bike, start your GPS tracker and go. Everything's completely automatic. The readings it's given have been plausible and consistent.
My only criticism is that the supplied "Quick Star Guide" is completely inadequate and I had to go to Wahoo's website for proper instructions on how to mount and pair the device. (This seems to be a consistent failing with Wahoo's products.) But, hey, you mount it once and then it just works.
The battery in this one is a CR2025 and the opening slot at one end chips off when using a coated screwdriver. It works sporadically for about the first 3 - 4 minutes a ride. The battery it came with did not have the usage protection piece, so it had only 4% charge. I'm thinking I got a lemon or a used/returned lemon or super old product. I'll buy from my LBS instead, which deals directly with Wahoo. I spent over $60.00 for crap and due to chipping on plastic case from screwdriver (yes, I'm very careful), it won't be accepted as a return. Plastic is so brittle. I'll be checking with Wahoo on the SKU to find out how old this actually is.
Packaging is so much better that Garmin. Gone through 2 Garmin cadence sensors - they just fall apart. The Wahoo packaging seems more robust despite using zip ties (which are easy enough to come by). Connected to my Garmin 810 without issue.
Early days, but I would recommend this over Garmin's cadence sensor.
The instruction in the box says place it on the outside of the crank arm but that's impossible as there isn't enough room and it runs on your shoe. Finally got it working only for it now to stop working. First signs were that Zwift appeared to be reading a cadence figure much less than the wahoo app on my phone. Now the phone won't connect even though the light flashes on the device so there is some power. Changing the battery should be simple but you end up butchering the plastic using a screwdriver and twisting which is the method suggested - even using multiple size screwdrivers it still wasn't "prizing" off as the online instructions suggest. (Nothing in the leaflet supplied). Only had the device a few days so I assume battery supplied is dead or else the unit is faulty. Will update review once I buy a new battery!
Used with: Garmin Edge 1030 This little gadget works perfectly. It was easy to fit using the double-sided tape supplied, since I have cranks with flat inside surfaces. In case you have cranks with curved surfaces, the unit comes with a snug little holder which zip-ties to the crank. It synced to my Garmin immediately, it starts up quickly and automatically, and it just works, every time. Cadence readings appear to be as accurate as you could hope for - there's often a delay of a couple of seconds before the reading changes in response to a change in cadence, but this could be the Garmin doing a time-averaging thing - it's not easy to update a display rapidly when measuring something that's only turning at little more than one rev per second. The big news for me is that so far, after using it for around 10 hours of riding, I haven't seen a single drop-out.
It's certainly infinitely better than the Magene sensor I bought originally, and which went into the scrap bin after a couple of rides due to continual signal drop-outs. If you're wondering which of these sensors to buy, I'd recommend you buy this Wahoo sensor - don't waste your money on the Magene.
I would have given this unit five stars, but I have to knock off one star because of the very soft plastic the sensor is made of - when the time comes to change the battery I think it's going to be difficult to prise open the battery compartment without causing some serious damage. Well, we'll see when the time comes, in the meantime I'm very pleased with it.
EDIT: I've just bought a second unit for one of my other bikes, and it arrived with a dead battery. The manufacturer stupidly ships these units with the battery already installed and connected, so every time the unit moves while in transit, it gets activated. The first one I bought was ok, not so the second one.
So as I had to change the battery, I was forced to find a tool to prise the unit open without damaging it. The only thing I can find to do the job is a ball-link plier used for separating the links used in RC planes, such as this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ATATMOUNT-Metal-Oblique-Helicopter-Repair/dp/B08NJR2WKS. I have two on hand and they do the job. If you don't happen to have one lying around though, it's pretty annoying to have to spend a tenner for a tool just to change the battery.