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I managed to shear the heads off the 2 bolts holding the EGR inlet pipe to the exhaust manifold on my Land Rover Disco when fitting a blanking kit. Managed to drill the upper bolt out and put an M6x35 bolt coated with some of this paste through with a nut on tight on the back but could not get a drill bit on to the lower one or get behind it. Used regular exhaust assembly paste between the plate and the manifold as a basic gasket and a small bead as far round as I could, let that set then piled on a generous amount of this paste to get it air tight and well sealed. That was 6 weeks ago and I have been checking it regularly and nothing has moved or cracked what so ever. Very happy that it saved me from pulling the manifold and having to drill and tap 2 new holes which would of been a pain & long job. It does give you a pretty good almost cold weld. This paste is seriously tough and sets like metal and is withstanding 600 degrees plus easily along with preventing any movement of the plate. Am very impressed and will no doubt find more uses for the rest of it now I know it is strong and withstands a lot of heat and vibration. It is far far superior to it's lower temp resistant J.B. Weld high heat paste and of course loads better than standard fire putty or exhaust paste which cracks easily with vibration and becomes quite brittle towards the top of its temp range.
Pros: easy to apply with an old ice cream stick. Can be applied by hand and washes out easily.
Cons: took several layers of application to plug the hole. First application had cracks through it after driving letting exhaust out so reapplied and reapplied and reapplied until it was totally covered. Also as I was applying this upwards, it does flow whilst drying so I had some minor jbweld stalactites. Had to keep smoothening it until it hardened.
Overall, key is to apply in layers for large holes. So far seems to be holding, although we haven't driven much. Gut feeling is on long drives it will crack but good enough to get through mot. See pic for the size of hole I plugged. Would recommend as a temporary fix until you can get something more permanent.
Used to repair deep pits in iron stove for cosmetic reasons. Adheres well and rock hard but too granular to rub down to an invisible finish. There is always a raised edge you cant feather out. Took the paint over without issue. Easy to clean tools and hands, I Just used soapy water. Has a texture and paste thickness similar to valve grinding paste.
For something that isn't a 2 part epoxy, it's seriously hard stuff.
non-cosmetic repair on exhausts, blocks, rads etc I'd imagine it would be OK for a temp fix. It's so hard I would just have reservations to thermal cycle resistance over an extended time.
I bought this to repair an exhaust bolt hole and to actually glue the bolt in the hole. I cleaned the exhaust and set the bolt in place with the JB weld and it looked good.
Left it for a couple of days and when I looked at it, the glue had smoothed out really well and it looked very good. That was until I gave the bolt a tiny pull and the glue crumbled. I thought it was too good to be true and it is.
Don't waste you money, just get the metal welded or buy some silver solder suitable for the job.
Used this to ensure a tight seal around EGR cooler in my audi, which was leaking into car.. just used gloves and layered the putty around the join and "voila" works a treat with no leaks and heat does not effect it ...GREAT STUFF
This was for my dad's multifuel stove. It had a hairline crack inside on a back plate. This plate is nearly £90 to replace so we got some of this and applied it as required. Job sorted and cost about £8 instead of £90 for the part to be purchased. Definately worth it
Bought this to join an intake manifold that is made of aluminium. Genuine welding would have been better but it takes specialist equipment that would have cost more than a replacement manifold. So I took a punt on using JB Weld Extreme Heat and it has held up well. Fingers crossed it remains intact.