Amazon.sg:Customer reviews: Renogy 12V 50A DC On-Board Input MPPT Charger for Gel, AGM, and Lithium Batteries Using Multi-Stage Charging, in RVs, Cars, Boats, Yachts, Recommended to Match with 60A ANL Fuse, w
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I consulted with them before buying Solar Panels - Lithium batteries - charge Controller - BT-2 and Remote Battery Display -- All Renogy products. - Hired a professional Marine Electrician to install -- poor intructions - cannot get Charge controller to charge the starting battery as advertised and cannot get Blue Tooth module or remote battery panel connected and working despite 12 hours on hold and dozens of emails -- You cannot connect the system as described in the manuals and or diagram the sent to me first - I have made a dozen requests for help with no help - STAY AWAY STAY AWAY STAY AWAY -- If they do respond and it works I will update my review -- but its been over a month trying to get everything working. BAD BAD BUSINESS
This install was described as "easy" what a lie: the hardware was simple enough, the software is a total mess with no instructions or guides whatsoever. Support is available if you have an hour to wait on hold just to be disconnected. Once reached support re- reads the manual to you, and gives conflicting information depending on who answers. Would not recommend buying from them- Renogy is all marketing and with no engineering product support. I'm buying Victron to replace
Nice concept but the 25v solar input is too low to be practical u less your building your system from scratch. . Replaced my panels (with Renolgy) and paired it with the BT2 and now have 50% of the charging power I used to and less diagnostic info available with the DC Home app then I did with my cheap Tracer Bn controller for 3 times the money!
I've installed 2 of these in 2 seperate vehicles now. For my camping vehicle that sits for months at a time, my house and starting batteries are always charged and my drinks in my fridge are always cold. *Remember, Solar takes priority, the charging amps are split between the solar panel(s) and your altenator. If you're driving and want all 50 amps to come from the altenator then add an on/off switch to your solar panel(s). The switch is good for driving at night or on cloudy days.
Took out a middle row seat on my GX470 and built a dedicated coach battery setup for camping when I'm offroading. This unit is compact and dual capable as I didn't need to source both a solar charger and DC-DC. The unit is pretty straightforward and was easy to configure, I did get the Bluetooth module (BT-2) which is a bit sub par of a device but at least shows me real time battery charging and voltage while I drive. Just need to be aware of the restraint with dual power inputs (limits to 25A each when it senses both solar and alternator) and the max input on solar. But honestly most overland or vanlifers aren't running a massive array of solar so for us this item is perfect!
So this is great thing in theory and works very well. The negatives are that the manual isn’t written clearly or correct ie 65&75 amp anl fuse that don’t exist than you have the alternator signal wire that has to be hooked up to a 12v source regardless of what alternator you have. This was a super frustrating installation.
This is a really simple system to hook up. I recommend getting either a bus bar or distribution block for the ground at the very least. I'll be putting a positive distribution block in also. You will also need a second inline fuse for the alternator input. It does come with one 60-amp ANL, but the manual recommends one for both solar input and alternator. Also, in line fuse for your solar panels at the connection. It's redundant but a lot cheaper to replace a fuse than cable, panels or batteries. I haven't had a chance to get my solar panels hooked up, but I have the DCDC charging set up. It works perfectly fine. I'm running a 300-amp alt to a battery isolator for my auxiliary battery bank for my offroad lighting and winch. From that point (for now) I hooked up 4AWG battery cables with jumper cable alligator clips, to an Anderson plug that runs into my cargo trailer conversion. Right now, I'm running 300 ah bank, with a 3500 watt inverter and it's being charged flawlessly when running my truck. When the extra battery cable shows up I'll run a more permanent setup from the starter battery rather than the auxiliary, which I think will shorten charge time drastically since it will be more direct.